20 August, 2006

Transitions

Transitions are always difficult. It takes time and struggle for societies and individuals to cope with them and assimilate the feelings of hope and anticipation but also ddisorientation, unrest and disappointment they awaken. This post was supposed to come way earlier and be way more specific but, you know, transition times are hard...


Transition part 1: Bye Prishtina

"Don't be dismayed at good-byes. A farewell is necessary before you can meet again. And meeting again, after moments of lifetimes, is certain for those who are friends."
Richard Bach

My last weeks in Prishtina were a compound of last-minute visits and interviews. The country it'’s been living in transition for the last 7 years, waiting for their final status to be defined out of the negotiations with the UN and the Serbian government, and hoping that final status will be full independence.

(Check all the pictures fromKosova and further explanations at koreland pictures )

In the municipality of Shterpce, where a Serbian local government building raises right across the UN monitored official Kosovar local government, I learned more about the reality of parallel institutions in the country. From a report of the CERI (Centre d’Études et de Recherches Internationals):

"“Exercise of the authority of UNMIK and Provisional Institutions of Self-government (PISG) throughout the entire territory of Kosovo has continuously been challenged by the existence of parallel structures supported and directly controlled by Belgrade. Parallel structures, including courts and other outlets of the Belgrade government, which operate in Kosovo without hindrance, drastically undermine both the identification of citizens with the rule of law and their trust in the system. [...] The persistence of parallel structures is generally seen as a political demonstration of Serbia's presence in Kosovo as well as a reflection of mistrust between the two largest ethnic communities, which seriously undermines the implementation of the rule of law in the entire territory of Kosovo."

Another hint on the evolution of the Kosovar transition to whatever the decided final status is: Right before I left, citizens of Prishtina protest on the streets showing their frustration and discontent with the UN role.


(Check all the pictures from Kosova and further explanations at koreland pictures )

After 2 months, I finally left Kosova on July the th with that usual feeling of my time there having been too short.


Things I took with me from Kosova:
  • A very basic level of Albanian and a thick self-teaching book that I hope will help me get beyond the basic level someday.
  • The RAGE of seeing once again how people are reduced to numbers and their feelings and sufferings dehumanized and monopolized by the powerful.
  • Some HOPE after seeing how this same people keep struggling, laughing, crying, loving, being human beings despite all.
  • A new interest for the books of Albanian writer Ismail Kadare and Brazilian writer Paulo Coelho, induced by my Kosovar friends.
  • A renewed distrust for those international institutions, workers and NGOs that rock unashamedly their arrogant, colonizer manners without trying to understand the reality (and the language) of the regions they pretend to save, and who measure people'’s development based on how good their English is.
  • The struggle of so many wonderful, special women that, like in so many other places around the world, are trapped in the stereotypes and oppressive structures of the patriarchal societies in which their live and, despite all, dare to challenge them.

Things I'’m leaving there:
  • My copy of PARECON, left for the cause with my Kosovar host.
  • New friendships of the unique kind that comfort you, expand your horizons and help you evolve.



Transition part 2: overview of Catalonia

"There is nothing like returning to a place that remains unchanged to find the ways in which you yourself have altered."
Nelson Mandela

Ten days is, as it states John Reed'’s famous book, what took for the Communist Revolution in Russia to take off. Also ten days was the duration of the war between Slovenia and Yugoslavia after the former country declared independence. So ten days might look like a fair amount of time, but they are absolutely insufficient when this is the only time one can get to spend at her home place after being away for more than half a year and before being away for another year at least.

(Check all the pictures from Catalonia and further explanations at koreland pictures )

I arrived to Barcelona at the beginning of the vacation season on the 1stof August, and the side effects of the approval of the new Catalan Constitution 3 months before were still on the air. Graffiti like the one in the picture as well as people's conversations in general show how high sensitivities are.


Things I took with me from Catalonia:

  • Some of my dearest books: Miquel Marti i Pol and Amin Maalouf, Jose Luis Sampedro and Merce Rodoreda.
  • Some of my favorite music to keep me in touch with my roots: Lluis Llach and La Cabra Mecanica, Maria del Mar Bonet and Obrint Pas.
  • A fear of the growing racism against the growing numbers of immigrants arriving to the country.
  • The comforting feeling of being immerse for 10 days in an environment where nobody doubts of the evilishness of Israel's invasion of Lebanon and US occupation of Iraq.
  • The horrible and every time more familiar images of the hundreds of Africans that every summer try to reach Spain by crossing the Strait of Gibraltar in home-made boats, and too often die on the attempt or face immediate deportation at their arrival.
  • A full heavy suitcase of Catalan crafts, cooking devices, liquors and T-shirts.
  • The re-energizing effects of the Mediterranean sea and sun.

Things I'’m leaving there:
  • Family, friends and a 4 months old niece and 2 months old nephew that I just met for the first time.
  • The discouraging and enraging picture of the more recalcitrant Spanish right wing manipulating people's identity feelings and spitting out its repressive nationalism in the form of boycotts of Catalan products, pleas to the Supreme Court to try to invalidate the Catalan Constitution, and incendiary speeches in the media portraying Catalans and Basques as almost-terrorist fascist oppressors of Spaniards (ironic, isn't it?).
  • Tasty oranges, tomatoes and olive oil at reasonable prices.
  • Life easily measured in Celsius, kilos and meters.


Transition part 3: the way back... home ??

"I soon realized that no journey carries one far unless, as it extends into the world around us, it goes an equal distance into the world within."
Lillian Smith


(Check all the pictures from New York at koreland pictures )

A flight to New York, a couple days sharing my experiences and jet lag with friends in the city, and a ride on the China Town Bus have been the last steps of this crazy story of transitions. I am finally at... home?? Well, I'm starting to get confused in using the word “home", let’s just say I'’m back in the US.

Digesting, processing, adjusting... now is when the hardest part of the trip starts.


Check out all the pictures and descriptions of my trip here.

2 Comments:

At 3:44 PM, Blogger I love peace said...

best wishes from Kosova

 
At 10:19 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Nice post.

And no doubt, Catalonia will be free once again (in an united Europe).

 

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